What is the warranty on your anchors?
We provide a lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects, and even against bending or deformation. Refer to the Warranty Page for more information.
Where can I buy one of your anchors?
We have a worldwide network of distributors and dealers who can provide you with a Rocna or Vulcan. Refer to our Where to Buy Page for a dealer near you. If you can’t find a local source, contact us and we will match you up with a dealer.
What is the best way to set a Rocna or Vulcan anchor?
While both the Rocna and Vulcan anchors offer extremely quick sets across a range of bottom types, they may require some modification to anchoring technique. Peter Smith, designer of Rocna and Vulcan, offers the following tips to optimize setting performance:
- Shackle the anchor directly to the chain using a good quality load rated shackle. The shackle body passes through the shank, and the pin through the chain. Use the largest size shackle that the pin will fit through the chain. Rocna does not recommend swivels, as they can be a weak point, are generally not necessary, and for the Vulcan in particular can add too much weight to the end of the shank, impacting setting performance.
- Don’t drag the anchor while trying to set it. With the old generation Plough type anchors it was traditional to use lots of chain and drag them, usually some distance to get them to set, often on the second or third try. With Rocna and Vulcan, you want to avoid any pull before sufficient scope is paid out.
- When deploying the anchor drop out your scope at 5:1 (water depth + anchor roller above water X 5 ). Try not to drag the anchor before at least 3:1 is deployed.
- When deployed let the boats backward momentum and or wind set the anchor rather than engine power initially. Other than low rev’s to get the boat moving in the right direction don’t back down on the unset anchor with any power.
- You should feel the anchor start to set as the rode takes up. Only then by all means use some engine power to complete the set and reassure yourself it is in. However, I don’t recommend any more than 25% revs until the anchor has had a few hours to work itself in.
- If you do ever have to re-set the anchor always clean the old mud off first before redeploying – otherwise caked mud can interfere with subsequent sets.
The point of the above is to reduce build-up of substrate on the top edge of the shank in a soft bottom by dragging it before enough rode is deployed. The initial setting position of most modern anchors is on their sides and they don’t like being dragged any distance before this is attained.
If you are short on swinging room you can shorten scope to 3:1 after the anchor is set, and still have around 90% holding power. Let out more scope up to 7:1 if it starts blowing hard.
Use this technique, and you should get an instant set every time.
Any questions? Contact us at email@example.com.
If your anchor sets so well, how do I retrieve it?
Motor forward retrieving rode until your bow is above the anchor. Typically a straight vertical pull will break the anchor loose. In the event that the anchor is difficult to break loose, either due to severe weather or a hard clay bottom, don’t bog down the windlass (or strain your back). Typically there will be some swell in the anchorage – every time the bow dips with the swell, take in a few inches of rode. After several cycles, the buoyancy of the boat will have worked the anchor loose and you can easily retrieve. In the event there is no swell, you can cleat off the rode and drive over the anchor with your motor to break it loose. This will be the exception, however – most of the time a straight vertical pull will do the trick.
Anchor’s performance setting in rocky bottoms
Some submarine environments present extreme challenges for anchors. The harder the seabed type, the more difficult it is for an anchor to set. The Rocna is accomplished on almost all seabed types, but there are some environments that will present challenges even for it. Rock and coral (never anchor on live coral) are obvious problems, where no anchor can perform reliably. A Rocna will find a rock or crevice to grab, just as well if not better than any other type. However, it could also easily become fouled.
In another form, flat and solid slabs of rock, or coral pan, may offer no terrain on which to grip. In this case there is little that can be done other than depend on the dead weight of the anchor and resulting friction on the bottom. This is one reason some cruisers like to have very over-sized anchors.
We have more information available on the Rocna website in regards to setting and retrieval of the Rocna anchor. Click here: http://www.rocna.com/kb/Setting_and_retrieval
What if the anchor gets stuck under a rock?
Motor forward retrieving rode until your bow is above the anchor. Typically a straight vertical pull will break the anchor loose. In the event that the anchor is difficult to break loose, either due to severe weather or a hard clay bottom, don’t bog down the windlass (or strain your back). Typically there will be some swell in the anchorage – every time the bow dips with the swell, take in a few inches of rode.
After several cycles, the buoyancy of the boat will have worked the anchor loose and you can easily retrieve. In the event there is no swell, you can cleat off the rode and drive over the anchor with your motor to break it loose. This will be the exception, however – most of the time a straight vertical pull will do the trick.
Should I choose a Rocna or a Vulcan?
The Vulcan was developed for boaters who wanted to enjoy the security and performance of a Rocna, but had difficulty fitting it on their bow due to interference with the roll bar. When designing the Vulcan, the design intent was to match the performance of the Rocna, and in our internal testing and feedback from customers, we believe we have achieved our goal. Therefore the question of Rocna or Vulcan is determined by which anchor fits better on your bow – in either case, you will enjoy the same quick sets, massive holding power, and reliable performance across the full range of bottom types.
How to choose the right size of the anchor.
Here at Rocna Anchors we are very conservative in our ratings, and base them on winds to 50 knots and real world wave conditions. On this basis, using our Fitment Guide you would be at the bottom or the top of the range depending on your intended cruising plans and how conservative you want to be.
NOTE: Go one size up for catamarans or multi-hull.
Bow Roller Compatibility
In regards to Bow Roller compatibility:
- Any roller designed for a Delta will typically work well with Rocna as the shank profile is similar.
- Lewmar and Windline are two popular manufacturers. The Windline BRM-3 https://windline.com/index.php?act=viewdetails&mod=125 has an adjustable roller, and might be a good choice.
Can I drill a hole in the anchor shaft to fit the existing lock pin on my bow roller system?
We don’t recommend drilling holes in the shank for several reasons (a) because it weakens the shank both due to the hole and possible overheating during drilling of the high tensile shank and (b) corrosion due to damage of the hot dip galvanizing.
We also don’t recommend using a pin to retain the anchor, as wave action can bend the pin making it impossible to deploy the anchor quickly in an emergency (this has happened to some customers). Rather, we recommend lashing on the bow, which can be untied to deploy or cut free in an emergency.
Regarding galvanizing residue on the anchor
The silver paint is residue resulting from the extra cold finish galvanizing that Rocna adds on top of the regular hot dip galvanized anchor. The cold finish galvanizing provides an extra layer of corrosion protection to ensure that all parts of the anchor is covered and protected.
Rocna is the only anchor manufacturer that adds this layer of protection which results in the anchor having superior corrosion protection. This residue is normal and there is no need for concern.
What is the process of re-galvanizing the anchor?
Rocna uses a high-tensile steel in the shank, and this requires a bit of extra attention during the re-galvanizing process to ensure that the “pickling solution” used to clean the anchor before galvanizing does not damage the steel.
The recommended procedure is as follows:
- Remove all labels, glue reside under labels, and stickers from the anchor.
- Sandblast to remove all old galvanizing down to bare steel (surface needs to be clean of all old zinc).
- Let the galvanizer know that there is high tensile steel in the shank, and that they need to “Flash Pickle” the anchor before galvanizing, and not to use an extended soak in the pickling solution.
- Hang the anchor tip-down for dipping in Zinc.
- Re-galvanize to a Zinc thickness between 100-200 microns.
- Clean up any sharp edges or spikes with a hand file, making sure not to remove too much zinc and expose bare metal
- If there are any small pinholes in the galvanizing which go all the way down to bare steel cover them with a good quality cold-galvanizing spray. The galvanizers should be able to recommend or supply this.
- Apply new Rocna labels. (We can supply).
How to apply a Rocna label?
To replace the labels:
- Remove old label by running a razor knife between the anchor and the label to cut through adhesive
- Remove old adhesive first with a razor knife, putty knife, or scraper (careful not to scratch anchor outside label area), then with acetone to remove any residue
- Make sure anchor surface is clean and dry
- Remove backing on label, line it up carefully, then apply to anchor starting at one side and applying pressure from one side to the other
- Apply pressure by hand over entire surface of label, to ensure good adhesion
- (Optional) Remove clear plastic film covering label (it is intended to protect during shipping, and will eventually start to come off). Carefully peel it back from a corner, being careful not to scratch the label underneath. A fingernail usually works well.